Counter top Fabrication and Installation

  1. Slab Selection

    The first step is to select the material that will soon become your new countertop. You are invited to visit our slab yard. Please make an appointment to view your stone.

  2. Free Estimate

    The next step is to find out what your needs are. Getting a drawing of the project you are working on can do this. All that is necessary is a blueprint or hand drawing of your kitchen cabinets with dimensions.

  3. Template

    The next step is to find out what your needs are. Getting a drawing of the project you are working on can do this. All that is necessary is a blueprint or hand drawing of your kitchen cabinets with dimensions.

  4. Fabrication

    After we have your measurements and you have selected your stone, your material is brought into the Fabrication facility. Measurements are entered into a computerized system to ensure complete accuracy. The stone and edge profiles are cut according to these measurements.

Fabrication

  • Fabrication and installation cannot be scheduled until we have all sinks, faucets, cooktops, or any item that requires cutouts, stone is inhouse and approved by the customer, templates are completed, and customer has approved cutting layout and confirmed edge detail.
  • Prior to template and installation all existing plumbing to be disconnected and current countertops removed.
  • Prior to fabrication, the customer should review and approve stone for color, grain, and layout at our shop even if it was previously approved at the stone supplier. We will fabricate without this final approval, but customer will be responsible for finished product.
  • Job will be templated by us or templates and/or detailed prints to be supplied by customer.
  • The customer to supply all items (stovetops, sinks, faucets, soap dispensers, etc.) which require cutouts or holes in stone.
  • The customer to note exact location of all sinks, stovetops, and hardware, as noted above.
  • The customer is responsible to assure that all sinks, stovetops, and hardware will fit in cabinet openings.
  • Access to the installation site may dictate size and weight limitations on pieces to be fabricated.

Installation

  • All cabinets must be completely installed, must be level to within 1/8” in 10’-0”, and clear of all projections.
  • All moldings (windows, doors, etc.), which will hinder installation, must be removed and replaced by the customer.
  • In cold weather installations heat is required to allow adhesives on seams and sinks to properly cure and prevent voiding of seam warranty.
  • The customer is responsible to set proper height of dishwasher and stove and note exact location.
  • Due to high and low spots in walls and drywall, we cannot guarantee that your backsplash will be flat to all mounting surfaces.
  • Installer will color match based on his experience and judgment during the time of installation.
  • We apply one coat of sealer to the stone when fabrication is completed. It is suggested that the customer apply an additional two coats of sealer to maximize the stain protection of the stone as soon as possible after installation, and to reseal or check countertop yearly after that.

Tile installation

Prepare the Surface

Make sure your surfaces are clean, smooth, and dry for best results. Take time to repair, patch, and level any damaged or uneven areas. Double check to make sure the surface is structurally sound and the area free of wax, soap scum, and grease.

Remove any moldings, trim, or appliances that may interfere with tile application and check the doorjambs to make sure tile has clearance when installed beneath. Identifying those potential complications in advance will help your installation run smoothly.

Begin Your Layout

For an efficient layout, start by marking the center point of each of the walls in the room. Next, snap chalk lines between the center points of opposite walls to pinpoint the center of the room. Make any necessary adjustments to ensure that the intersection creates perfect squares.

Starting at the center point, lay a row of loose tiles along the center lines in both directions, using tile spacers as you go for even, uniform joints. Once you reach the walls, you'll need to cut tiles for a proper fit. If the cuts needed are smaller than half of a tile, you can adjust the center line by snapping a new line a half-tile size closer to the wall. If necessary, repeat this step along the intersecting center line for a precise design.

To make a large room more manageable, divide each section into smaller 2' x 3' grids by snapping additional lines parallel to the centerlines.

Apply the Adhesive

As a general rule of thumb, be mindful to mix only enough of the adhesive to be used within 30 minutes. Using the flat side of the trowel type recommended on the adhesive package, spread a 1/4" coat on the surface of one grid area without covering the guidelines.

After doing so, hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle and use the notched side to comb adhesive into standing ridges. When you remove the excess adhesive, you leave behind a uniform, ridged setting bed for your tile. As another rule of thumb, do not spread a larger area of your adhesive than can be set in 15 minutes.

Stick to the script and facilitate your tile installation with the perfect adhesive application.

Cut Tile as Needed

Start by marking carefully measured cuts-to-be with a pencil or felt-tip pen on the tile surface. You can use a tile cutter to achieve pinpoint straight or diagonal cuts. Make masterful curved cuts with a nipper, chipping away small pieces for best results.

For any full-length curved cuts, a rod saw is most properly suited to handle the task. After your cuts are made, smooth out any sharp edges with a carborundum stone to give a soft finish to your tile.

Set Your Tile

Now that you've primed the surface, created the layout, applied the adhesive, and cut the tile, you are fully prepared for the actual installation of your tile.

Begin by installing tiles in the center of the room, one grid at a time, finishing each grid before moving on to the next. Within each grid, it will help to start the first tile in the corner and work outward.

Using a slight twisting motion, set tiles one at a time and avoid sliding them into place. Be sure to either insert spacers as each tile is set or leave equal joints between tiles. Save the perimeter tiles in each grid for last, leaving a 1/4 th inch gap between the tile and wall. Once a grid is completely installed, tap in all tiles with a rubber mallet or hammer and wood block to ensure a solid bond and level plane. Remove excess adhesive from joints with a putty knife and from tile with a damp sponge to prevent an uneven appearance.

Lastly, allow your hard work at least 24 hours to set before walking on it. And of course, take at least 20 minutes to admire the time and care you have put in to your new floor!

Grouting Joints

Now that your Tile is in place and has had 24 hours to set, your last Step is to "grout" or fill the joints and consolidate your floor into one mass.

After carefully reading and following all instructions and precautions on the grout package, make only enough to use in a 30-minute period. As you remove the tile spacers and spread grout on the tile surface, use a rubber grout float or a squeegee to force it down into the joints. Tilt the float at a 45-degree angle and with the edge of the float, remove the excess grout from the surface immediately. Now tilt the float at a 90-degree angle and scrape it diagonally across the tiles.

Once you've let the grout set slightly for around 15 to 20 minutes, use a damp sponge to clean any residue from the surface and smooth the grout joints. Make sure to rinse your sponge frequently and change the water when needed.

Polish with a soft cloth when the grout has dried and haze forms on the tile surface, and rinse again with sponge and clean water if necessary. Give your newly grouted floor 72 hours before any heavy use and at least three weeks before applying sealers or polishes.